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I look at my slides on a projector or light box or a loupe....>>>
What is loupe?
I will try to shoot slide films.
Very nice pictures,
When next article is comming...:)
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What is loupe? >> A loupe is a simple magnifier with typical powers of (4x, 5x, 8x).
A loupe with 4x power shows you a 4inch by 6 inch (approx) view of the slide.....it is a good, cheap and portable slide viewer.
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Sudhrya: => Maze ratriche fotos sharp yet nahit (kahi kahi tar agadich fiskatlyaasarkhe aalet). >> You need increase the exposure time by 1 to 1.5 stops than what is suggested by camera meter in order to compensate for the loss of sensitivity of the film.
If you use the auto modes, you will get a good picture only once in a while by a stroke of luck if at all. Take the time to learn how to use the Manual /Av and Tv modes on your camera and the exposure compensation and bracketing concepts.
Refer to the published exposure compensation tables by the manufacturers on their web site to compute the exact amount of exposure compensation needed.
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Konala trick photography using panning/multiple exposers/bulb exposers/ overlap printing etc. sathi chaangli web site maahit aahe ka?
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ajay,
site baryach ahe, nuktich hi site pahanyat ali, bagh upyog hoto ka...
http://www.photographytips.com/page.cfm/664
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I am flattered that you liked those photographs.
Anyway, I had taken them to illustrate a point about what NOT to do !!
There are Three essentials that make a good photograph
1. Lighting.
2. Composition.
3. Depth of Field.
Umya & Others: I guess you will learn something from critiques about photographs too !!
Hence I am critiqueing my own pictures....and I if anyone wants, i can try to critique there pictures and tell, "what could have made the picture better" ....hopefully that will help ppl improve...so ...
Critiques on My Own photographs:
1. The Morning Dew: Mother Nature's Necklace
Photo...
The lighting on this photo is not very good or flattering, in fact it sucks. Remember that good lighting can make simple things look beautiful.....bad lighting can make the most beautiful of subjects look ordinary.
If I had waited for another 30 minutes, the sun would have come up and struck those dew-drops and made them glow with the golden yellow warmth and the photograph would have been more stronger, in that the lighting would have brought out the beauty of the subject. Compare the lighting on this picture to that on the Single Dew-Drop photo in which the sun-light has engulfed the dew-drop and makes it look good.....
One way of thinking about a photographic process is , Choose a Subject, then Compose so that the Subject is the most prominent thing in the Frame, Select Lighting so as to Flatter the Chosen Subject and then Shoot !
The Quality of Light Changes throughout the day and it is always good to photograph a couple of hours after sunrise and a couple of hours before sunset.....this light produces side lighting on most of the subjects, which brings out or models the Form of the Subject and also has a nice warm quality associated with it which render's the Colors of the Subject with a Nice PUNCH. There is a concept called the Color Temperature of Light....I am sure there must be plenty of material available on the Web on this...and I would encourage you to read it and understand light in totality if you are serious about photography....
2. While I am talking about Color....take a look at the SadaFuli picture....It was taken at noon with direct sunlight striking the picture...notice how the colors in that picture look faded and washed out....that is what happens when shooting mid-day with a hig-speed film....NEVER do that....i seldomly use anything more than ISO100....unless absolutely necessary like photographing limestone caverns or other such situations...
What we photograph or capture is the LIGHT....different subjects/objects reflect light is a different way and hence they look different.
Also, the same object looks different at different times of the day, based upon the kind of light that strikes the object. Hence, one has to figure out "In which kind of light does the subject look the best" .....in order to make a good picture.....
Try to carry a small 8" x 12" white cardboard with you while traveling, along with a similarly shaped tin foil and one golden fabric.....you can use these as reflectors to reflect light onto the subject and make them look better....golden reflectors make the skin glow and look better....tin reflectors are great for shooting florals and similar other Macro Shots...and so on and so forth.....I will put up some diagrams about how to light subjects sometime later....arrangements of reflectors and all (If ppl are intrested).
In the HibisCus Stamen picture, If I had used a reflector to reflect more light on the Stamen, then the contrast between the stamen and the background would have made the Stamen stand out !! ....small things one needs to take care of....
A lot of flowers Bloom in the DC area in mid-september. I will shoot them on slide Film, with reflectors and all.....then you can compare those pictures to these ....and realize what I mean when I say that "all of those pictures (except for the single dew-drop) suck"
...okay, I have rambled enough for one day....more later....
-M
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Great...M.
The article is really good...Mazya sarkhya navshikyaa photographar sathi hi phar mhatvachi mahiti aahe...Thanks.
ek prashna...
Mazya kade sadha yashikacha camera aahe. Sunlight madhe photo masta yetat pan gharat photo kadhale ki dull yetat. Tu je reflectors baddal sangitlas te gharat kasa use karata yeyeel ?
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Sparab: Oh yes Of course you can use reflectors inside the house. When I started learning photography a couple of months ago, mala dekhil ha problem bhesadavaat hota ;-))
.....gharamadhe lighting khup kami aste, don-char windows madhun light yeto and because of that faces look dull....you can see shadows of body parts like "nose" on the face which make the picture look not so good. Also, if the lights are ON, are you are not using a tungsten balanced film....tar color cha pan baja vaajto...
Ek fictitious situation ghe....manus baslay khurchivar...left side chya window madhun prakash yetoy.....tar tya vyaktichya right side la ek white foamboard tak. Aani tya vyaktichya exactly samor jaminivar ek white foam board kiwa cardboard tak...and adjust the foam board angles and you will see the difference in lighting....at one particular angle/position of the reflecting boards there will be no shadows on then face and there will be light all over. Each and every feature on the face will receive equal light and will achieve prominance......Also extra light falling on the clothes/fabric make brings out the texture of the fabric and gives the overall picture a quality that will make you want to look around the photo.....
Ek Suggestion: IF you are shooting indoor with lights....bathroom chya shower curtain chya inside la je translucent cloth aste na, tyacha ek piece Bulb chya samor 1 feet vaar diffuser mhanun takava......diffused lighting makes things look better....
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Maverik,
I liked the points you made about your photographs. I am not yet knowledgeble enough to understand the bad things about the photo. But I really liked the Benzzz photo. What is your own opinion about that photo?
I read your article about Films and lighting. It was really informative. After reading your article about films, I think either we need atleast two different kinds of films loaded in different bodies or load the most suitable film at the time of shooting. Since I don't take same type of photographs in single roll. I take combination of Indoor and Outdoor pics. I was told that ISO 400 type film is good for mixed type of photography. That means combination of indoor and outdoor photographs in a single roll. Can you suggest a kind of film which is suitable indoors as well as outdoors??
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Natya: You WILL with time understand the subtelities !! it takes months of effort and patience to reach UP there....keep shooting....practice...make notes of what you are doing....
Benz: Again there are two aspects to every picture...
a. The Technical Proficiency.
b. What it makes you Feel.
I LOVE the Benz picture, though it is technicaly imperfect !! ....my caption there sum's it up, really :) ....If had used a lower ISO film and polarizer on that picture, it would have cut the glare, saturated the color and brought out the soft curves and the changing surface curvature on the body work ! (which was my intention)
The most Technicaly proficient picture will fail to move you if the subject is boring :o) .....sometimes technically mediocre pictures grab my attention because they stir the senses....
When both points come together, you have a GREAT picture on your hands ...
I am not aware of any film that is suitable for all types of photography. Professionals do keep 3 bodies with them, loaded with different films. I am not a pro neither rich...i use CC filters.
If you take different pictures on the same film, then these Color Correction filters (CC) can be used. These filters provide the necessary masks to enable one film to be used under a variety of lighting. A daylight film with CC and other filters such as ND can be used to take pictures in almost any kind of lighting such as tungsten lighting and all....the picture quality may not be as good as using a special film....Oh well, if u are not too nit-picky abt the quality of the picture, you can let go :o) unless you are planning to sell your pictures...thoda ikde tikde chalun jaate...... will write about filters in the Next Article.
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prashant nice photos..
apart from all these articles some practical tips
people talk about garins and all but normally with postcard or similar sizegrains are not visible.. if you are using same film for day and night shoots iso 200 is safe bet
If you are comfirtable with all technical aspects use kodak pro photo film else Agfa gives good color results.
With glass and similar reflecting surfaces use polarizer
With night photography max exposure you should give is 3 mins. anything more than that is not worth.
For portaraits : get closer thats the rule..that dose not mean you should be standing very close to model/person..get lense with better zoom and zom in . if shooting portfolio try some stills if you have handicam or something to get some idea of the face /features of person.Use some stock poses to be on safer side..
check my photo session(out door) done by one of my friend who is pro.
Ajai's photo session Done by Ajay Pande..check album Ajay
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With night photography max exposure you should give is 3 mins. anything more than that is not worth. >> Nahi re Ajai...aasa kahi nahi...khup lok 3 min peksha jaasti exposure vapaartat night photos karta. !!
I have seen some Landscape Photographs taken at night time/pre-dawn time that have been more than 3 minutes of exposure..... (something in the range of 5 to 8 minutes...and also 15-22 mins in extreme cases....problem is, if you cannot estimate exposures of more than 3 mins precisely, in all probability you will end up with a WHITE slide)......please do not say that it is not worth it. I have shot 16 min exposures and am very happy with the results. Exposures of more than 3 mins are well worth it at times....
...tuzhya post var tika karaycha vagare hetu nahi ahe.....just that if u do photography, you shud not limit yourself to less than 3 minute exposures....
.get lense with better zoom and zom in >> Just Adding Some Details Here:
1. If you want the portrait to be a truthful reproduction of the persons facial features then use focal lengths close to 100mm. That preserves relative size relationships !
2. Wide angle lenses increase the apparent size of objects close to the lens and hence the nose will appear larger than what it actually is, if shooting at close quarters....Larger zooms compress the image and the face will seem more flat....of course if you are going in for the Flat effect, then use the highest zoom possible.....or if going in for a large nose distortion effect use smaller focal lengths like 24 mm and shoot at close camera-to-subject distances.....
-M
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Sparab: I have uploaded a lighting diagram for indoor work at the web site
http://photos.yahoo.com/mav_photos
in the Album My Photos under the name "lighting1"
You need not use all the reflectors in the figure at all the times....use only those that you require to get the desired lighting effect on the subject.
As a general rule of thumb keep the reflector 2/3*(reflector size) distance away from the subject for best results.
Ex: If you have a circular reflector 2 feet in diameter, you will need to keep it (2/3)*2 feet away from the subject. !!
If shooting outdoor's and If you do not have reflectors along with you, then use a "Fill-IN" flash so that you can see the eyes and all the features around the eyes clearly.
If it is Day-Light, your SLR will say that flash is not required BUT use a manual over-ride and use that fill-in flash......nahitar dolyanchya aaju-baaju la black shadows paadtat aani changlya nahi disat....the fill-in flash will provide the required lighting.....
-m
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Maverik,
this means if you use fill in flash, don't use reflectors or vice versa. do you have any pictures which can differenciate reflecor & w/o reflector.
Thanks for the valuable info.
umya
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No Umya, there is no such hard and fast rule. You can use reflectors and fill-in flash in combination too. I have seen people do that even though I have not done it or found the necessity to do it.
I must have some pictures in my archives from the time when i was trying out lighting....will try to find some and post.
-maverik
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Nahi re Ajai...aasa kahi nahi...khup lok 3 min peksha jaasti exposure vapaartat night photos karta. !!
>> Maverik..Agreed but in normal conditions you never require that higher expouser time ..that was my point
Kay Ajai,
"Maze photo" he agadi "literally" ghetalelaa disataayas ...........
:)
>>Sudharya observation changle aahe ;-)
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m & A
I have read that for star trails people take exposure more than 20 mins.
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maverik,
do U know circular polariser 90deg rule for blue sky.?
I didn't get it
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do U know circular polariser 90deg rule for blue sky.? >> Point your index finger towards the sun and extend your thumb at right angles to the index finger. Now rotate your wrist about the index finger axis. The thumb will span a plane which is perpendicular to the index finger pointing direction and this plane provides the maximum polarization !
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First attempt:macro-photos in the flowers/insects section here
Taken in Botanical garden-Munich
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