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Maverik Question for u. I've a book printed on glossy paper. I want to take a snap of pne page and then want to enlarge it. Recommend me correct settings. I've N-70.
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Asami: What greycard have you calibrated your camera exposure meter for ?
Anyway, I can tell you the following things off the top of my head.
Making dupes from existing glossy paper pictures can be a tricky business because it is difficult to figure out the amount of reflected light from such a subject. If the surface is very very glossy...well, best of luck because it offers a rich field of opportunity for screwing up.
Lighting is the most critical element in successful copy work.
If you do not want to go through the process of calibrating your camera meter to a greycard (18% or 26% or whatever based upon the tonality of the final picture that you want to dupe) but would rather reoly on your camera's current exposure meter settings, then I would suggest that you use
1. Incandescent Tungsten Lighting and
2. Bracket Your Exposures heavily
(use films like EktaChrome T64).
One of them is bound to be the correct exposure.
(assuming that you are going to do this duplicating business only one or two times, I guess you can afford to waste some film)
If you are averse to using slide film, use a print film, bracket exposures and get a contact sheet made at some pro-processing lab. Then, based upon how things look on the contact sheet you can ask the processor to compensate while printing and get the good looking exposure printed. If you are using print film, don't go to Costco/BestBuy or any such store because the machines there are automatically set to correct exposures according to what they think is correct and you maynot get good quality pictures, exposed as you want them to be.
As for my First hand experience: I have made dupes of B&W prints only. Tungsten lighting works for me to take pictures of Glossy B&W stuff and my friends who have done Color tell me that it works for color too.
Use polarizing filter over the lens, employ cross-polarization, This gives great reflection control.
That is all I can think of now....will write back later if i remember anything.
You are an avid reader [ :-) ], you should try reading,
Copying and Duplicating by Eastman Kodak staff members, 1996 Silver Pixel Press. ISBN 0-87985-764-1. 144 pages.
That should give you all the information you need.
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thanks a ton Maverik. Let me try this. >>
BTW: T64 is a film that requires kodak's patented processing.
If you do not have an appropriate Kodak photoprocessing lab close to your place, you can try other slide films like Fuji Velvia which take E-6 processing and can be processed at most of the places like MotoPhoto/United Photo...Velvia gives a good color rendition.
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Tula kahi diffusion filter baddal mahiti asalyas saang. >> black and/or gold diffusion filters will smoothen out
the wrinkles and other blemishes on the skin.....i don't think you will get the "chehryabhovati glaze" vaala
effect.
To get that effect, I generally use a backlight for the subject and use a soft focus filter which enhances the
luminescence.
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Purple...the color of majesty... ...selective focus...
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Maverik & Prashant Photo atishay chan ahet.
Maverik tu phulacha photo kasa kadhala? kay setting thevales, light kashi hoti & film konati hoti.
Mi asa prayatna kele hote pan backgroung asa purnapane out of focus jat nahi. ani
nahitar object changala,& sharp yeto paan background kali yete. please sangshil la asa ka hote?
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Umya: Flower chya foto la 100mm lens @ f/4 ani 1/125 sec shutter speed hota.....the picture is taken on a simple Kodak ISO 400 print film which was pushed to 800 (as an experiment I wanted to see how grainy the picture gets)
It was 7.00pm in the evening and I photographed in the existing daylight.
Ekhadya subject cha kiti bhag focus madhe sharp yene he "depth of field var avlambun aste".
depth of field is in turn a function of
1. Aperture setting.
2. Focal length of the lens.
larger aperture , smaller is depth of field
larger focal length, smaller is DOF.
Your camera should have a "Depth of Field" feature ...use that to see how your picture will look in the final print.
or pick up a subject at shoot it from the same location at different apertures ranging from 2.8 to 16 and you will get a good idea of how your lens works.
I have to go now.
I will talk to you later.
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Maverik,
Kahi kahi photo madhye object chya magche va pudhche pan out of focus asate te kase?
sorry to bother you,
Umya
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Umya: You got it. If I wanted to get the petals on the back in focus I would have shot at f/4.5 of f/5.6 i.e a smaller aperture. OR as you said, used a smaller focal length with the same aperture OR I would have increased the camera to subject distance for the same setting (but that would have altered my composition).
# If you focus on an Object at a distance x from the camera then all objects whi
ch fall x'/3 in front of the object and 2x'/3 behind the object will be in focus ( on an average, for larger apertures such as f/1.8 - f/11).
[ In the figure I have incorrectly shown them as x/3 and 2x/3, and hence I am editing this post to let you know.]
x'=x'/3 + 2x'/3, is the total Depth of Field.
Anything which falls within the depth of field will
record acceptably sharp on the film.
For very small apertures f/27, f/32, f/45 everything within (x'/3) in front of the object extending behind the object to infinity will be in sharp focus.
Hence objects which are closer to the camera and which are farther away will be
out of focus while using large apertures, as shown in the accompanying figure. 
Along with the focal length and the aperture, the camera to subject distance (x) also controls the depth of field.
If you have any further questions. Feel free to ask. I will be happy to answer.
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InterPlay of Light and Dark - C'est La Vie.
Umya: Here in an example of a Large deprt of field. The total distance from the nearest column to the last column in almost 100 feet but all of them are in focus because I shot @ f/32.
They look compressed and close together because of the larger focal length used and the perspective chosen.
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Umya: Reiterating the fact that the alphabet x in "x/3" and "2x/3" in the figure should actually be x'.
Hence (x'/3) and (2x'/3) define the depth of field, where x' is a function of focal length f, aperture A, and camera to subject distance x.
(
click on the link below for a DOF calculator.
http://www.photozone.de/depth.htm
)
x' = function(f, A, x)
x' is very very small as compared to x at larger apertures like f/1.0, and also,
For a given lens, when the camera to subject distance, x = Hyperfocal distance of that Lens (it is given in lens manual) you will get the MAXimum possible depth of field at the set aperture and focal length.
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hi Umya and all,
Thanks for the compliments...maverik ne sagle explain kele ahech, tarihi ankhi mahiti sathi go to:
http://geocities.com/prashant_khapane/prashanteju.html
then follow : hobbies/photography
ethe mi baryach links add kelya ahet jya madhe photography baddal barich mahiti ahe...
webpage la bhet dilya baddal abhar...
maverik: light & dark interplay avdla...and it seems "summer is really there"
prashante ani teju
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Article # 1
If you have a camera and want to take pictures, you need to select a film.
I will discuss the preliminaries of film selection in this article.
One needs to address the following issues in order to select film properly
1. Will you use a Negative Film or a Positive film ?
2. Will you use a Daylight Balanced film or a Tungsten Balanced one ?
3. What Film Speed should you choose ?
After getting through the above three questions, you need to check the properties
of the chosen film.
The properties of a film are to be determined to check if that particular film
meets your expectations and they include
1. Color Rendition
2. Sharpness
3. Contrast and Latitude
4. Reciprocity Failure
Be sure to choose and stick to a good photo processing lab. Same film processed at
different stores will provide different characteristics because of the different
development time/chemistry/operator preferences.
Question 1.
Color Negative films are what the majority of consumers use. Positive or slide films
are what all professionals or wannbe pros use. It is expensive to make prints/scans from slide films but they
provide excellent quality pictures as compared to negative
films.
Advantages of using a Negative (also called print film) film include
a. Even if you underexpose/over expose the film by 1 to 1.5 stops, it is relatively
easy to compensate for that in the printing process. These films allow a large
room for exposure error which can be beneficial in the early stages of the learning
process wherein people tend to miscalculate exposures.
b. Such films produce a negative image which is cheap to convert into a positive color print.
c. Negative films generate muted tones. This is beneficial while photographing faces (skin tones).
If you need to record vibrant colors (fall colors), contrasty images, control exposure precisely
then you should not use print films. One should go in for slide films which are also called as
Positive films or Reversal Films.
Question 2.
Daylight films are balanced to record images properly in daylight when the existing light
comprises all wavelengths of the visible spectrum.
Tungsten balanced films are specifically designed to record images properly when shooting
in artificial light generated by tungsten filament (normal household bulbs or photolights). i.e when the existing light comprises only certain wavelengths in the visible spectrum.
If you use a Daylight balanced film to shoot tungsten light lit scene, the image will appear more
yellow/orange than what it actually is. If you use a Tungsten balanced film to shoot daylight scene, the
image will appear more Blue-Blue than what it actually is. You can try using tungsten balanced films
in daylight for special effects at times.
Tungsten balanced films are represented with a " T " in its ISO rating.
Question 3.
Film Speed:
An important decision in selecting a film for use is to chose an appropriate "film speed". Film
speed is represented by an ISO number (International Standards Organization).
Film speeds range from ISO 25 upwards. The number refers to a film's sensitivity to light. The
higher the speed/number, the more sensitive or faster the film; the lower the speed/number, the less
sensitive or slower the film. A fast film will require less light for proper exposure than a
low-speed film. For example, a film with a speed of ISO 25 is slower, requiring more light
than a film with a speed of ISO 200.
One of the major factors in determining the film speed is the size of the crystal (of the chemical used to
make the film); the larger the crystal, the higher the speed, and the coarser the grain. Coarser the grain, more
speckled/spotted/grainy the final picture will be.
Many people choose a film speed on an ad hoc basis such as
a. Very bright light, then use ISO 100
b. General Purpose photography, use ISO 200
and so on and so forth which is not incorrect but is inappropriate.
Use of a high-speed film for existing light pictures will allow you to hand-hold the camera and
use a smaller aperture for greater depth of field. This cannot be done with slow-speed films unless
you push them, which is not without its own limitations. While faster films can be preferred, there are
trade-offs (grainyness of the final picture being one of them) and each photographer should understand this
trade-off.
Testing Film
Pick a couple of rolls of different films of different speeds that you want to test and shoot pictures under different
kinds of lighting situations bright and sunny/overcast/indoors/with artificial lighting etc.
Keep notes during the entire process of what you are doing.
One film with react differently to indoor lighting and outdoor lighting and you need to find
out which one gives you the colors that you like indoors and which one gives you better colors outdoors.
This evaluation is subjective and a matter of your own personal taste.
Once you get your pictures developed from a "good" photolab (not best buy/costco or any such
grocery store place), compare different films for color, sharpness, contrast and reciprocity failure.
Sharpness is somewhat related to the grain size of the film and in effect the speed of the film. Higher
speed films will tend to be grainier and prints of the same size will appear less sharper.
The lower speed films are low contrast films and can be useful when shooting scenes with dramatically contrasty
lighting conditions i.e if a scene contains bright sunny areas as well as dark shade then the higher ISO films
like 400 or 800 will not be suitable. If you expose for shadows, the bright parts will get over exposed
and vice versa....might be a good idea to use lower speed films in such cases.
Reciprocity failure => At very short or very long exposures, a film does not behave normally. Exposures
of 1sec or 2sec and slower than that may produce color distortion and will be underexposed. The underexposure
part can be corrected in printing but the color shift will make the picture look wierdly greenish or bluish at times.
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Finally:
Store Film in the crisper of refrigerator to make the film last long and also to make the film maintain its
color balance at optimum.
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The following article lists some color slide films and color print films along with their characteristics
as measured in the Labs at popular photography. That article will give you a good idea of which films are available in
the market today and their specialities/uses. The article covers print as well as slide films.
http://popphoto.com/Camera/ArticleDisplay.asp?ArticleID=32
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For those of you who want to learn photography as an art and go further ... try not to use "negative films" because
you will never know what you are going to get back on the prints. You are at the mercy of the lab operator
for your color rendition / exposure. Use "Slide Films" and then no one can mess with the film while developing (the
printing process is totally eliminated reducing the number of variables)
and you can be in total control of the colors you want to record on the film and the kind of exposure
you want.
Unless of course you do your own color negative film developing and printing !
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References:
1. Color Films Primer by Nan
2. Landscape Photography by John
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This is an extremely extremely basic article and I have avoided referring to a lot of tests one should do on films for selection of "the" film for the Job at hand.
Experimentation is the name of the game because subjectivity rules ! which film one might like is very much a matter of how that person likes to see colors and contrasts. So experiment/test and then you will know exactly how a film
will react to the scene you are photographing !
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Maverik masta re, Tu itkya lavkar tayari karashil ase watale navate? Thanks
I haven't check the link yet but
I have one question,
Tungston films are slide films or print films?
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Tungston films are slide films or print films? >> They come as Both, Slide Films as well as Print films (Kodak Portra T100 is an example of print tungsten film and Ektachrome T100 is a slide T film).
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To give an illustration of what happens at very high film speeds, I shot ISO800 film yesterday morning and got those pictures scanned.
Since I cannot load them here, they are at
http://photos.yahoo.com/mav_photos
in the Album "My Photos"
You will see that those pictures are not very sharp and look grainy.
Will shoot ISO 25 when I find time and then you can compare the sharpnesses....or if you guys shoot ISO100 some time...compare that sharpness with these pictures....
I will add some depth of field control examples there in a while.
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Maverik,
Slide film & its processing is very costly?
Do you know which print film gives good colors, mostly for falls & landscape?
some one told me use fuji reala.
do U know any other.
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Slide film & its processing is very costly?
>> Nopes....it is 6.5 $ in the pro photo labs. Not very expensive.
I ususally buy short dated film from B & H photovideo....you get is cheap $3.99 per roll of 36 exp film ....
I prefer FujiChrome Velvia (RVP) for lanscapes and such pictures. It is supersaturated film and gives great colors. It kicks in a little blue into pictures at times (use 81B filter to correct it if you don't like that).
I prefer FujiChrome Astia for portraits tho. Gives good skin tone rendering (esp for caucasian skin). Brown/Dark skin tones are rendered equally good on kodak elitechrome...velvia..astia....
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Maverik,
Do you get printouts in 6$ or just slides?
I used only once, as it was my first slide, I got 5-6 picture were good, shapness & colour was too good.
processing in pro lab was around 5$ but printing of slide was $1 per picture.
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Do you get printouts in 6$ or just slides?
>> ohh just the slides man !! printouts from slides in this area are a minimum of $1.4 per picture.....mi article madhe mhanlyapramane to negative films cha advantage ahe ki prints swastat karun miltat.
Pan mi slide che prints karun ghet nahi generally. I look at my slides on a projector or light box or a loupe....saglech foto changle nahi yet.....jar ekhada foto mala faar faar avadla tar tyacha fakta print karun gheto mi.....nahitar i keep my slides as they are.
Tula album vagare karun thevaycha asel tar negative film shoot keleli bari.
I got 5-6 picture were good, shapness & colour was too >> with more and more practice you will learn to see how your final print will be even before you click the shutter....and you will get all your pictures GOOD ! slide films are unforgiving if you make exposure errors ani you will get the hang of in time....keep shooting slide film and make notes as you shoot (exposure information/surrounding lighting conditions etc) so that you can isolate what went wrong and why your picture got screwed !!
BTW: Varchya album madhle foto mi print film var shoot kele ahet (ISO 800 mhanalo te)..... you can try shooting slide film and compare those colors/sharpness with my pictures ! (changlach farak jaanvel tula)
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| मायबोली |
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| चोखंदळ ग्राहक |
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| महाराष्ट्र धर्म वाढवावा |
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| व्यक्तिपासून वल्लीपर्यंत |
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| पांढर्यावरचे काळे |
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| गावातल्या गावात |
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| तंत्रलेल्या मंत्रबनात |
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| आरोह अवरोह |
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| शुभंकरोती कल्याणम् |
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| विखुरलेले मोती |
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| हितगुज दिवाळी अंक २००८ |
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