|
Prashant,
Good photos again..
Just a Macro setting on Camera or you have used Macro lense itself? If yes have you added any F stop for that?
|
ajai,
macro lens...with built in light meter...but did bracketing with +-1/2 stops...for the last three in the gallery.
prashant & Teju
|
outcome of my first macro attempt... >> for a first Macro Attempt...its damn good....keep on shooting man ...I am sure you will have many more great pictures in your hand !!
Ek Suggestion, patla tar bagh: Watch out for the Backgrounds....the Background in the Red flower is very busy...mhanje khup kahi extra gosti disat ahet (blur aslya tari)...and that is distracting to the eye....yellow & pink flower chi backgrounds kashi plain aani chaan ahe aani te masta diste.....backgrounds can make or break a picture...
....what kind of flowers are the red and yellow ones ? ....Mala avadli...Naav mahit asel tar please sangshil ka ? I will try to find them in the DC botanical gardens and shoot some more macro shots if and when i find time.....
|
Maverik ani itar,
Mi kahi slide rolls shoot karave ase mhanato ahe.. Mala tya babatit kahi prashna ahet.
1) Outdoor sathi kuthla changala slide roll ahe ka?
2) He process kelyavar pahanyasathi swasta projectors available ahet ka market madhye?? Used/ Manual chalatil.. Pan jar slides kadhun baghayala instrument mahag asel tar problem.. Ani ekhade portable equipment swasta milate ka slides baghayala?
3) Ha jasta mahatwacha prashna... Mi parva eka mitrashi bolat asatana slides kadhanyacha maza vichar tyala sangitala. Tar tyane mala sangitale ki slides kadhatana jara under expose karave. tyachya mataparyant jar slidesla correct exposure dile tar tya project kelyavar photo madhil colors changale yet nahit. Mala ya vishayavar sagalyanche mat aikayala avadel.
BTW...Bahutanshi lokanna mahit asel tari mala avadanari photography resources baddal chhan site.. http://www.photo.net/
-- Rohit.
|
Maverik: red/yellow are dahaleya in German...ucchar Deliya english madhe (Iam not sure abt the spelling though)
Hmm Lal deliya baddal mala sudha he khatakat hote..pan te structure etke sudnar disat hote ki rahavena...ani dusri phule komejli hoti kinva kharab zali hoti (lal)...
Umya,
Thanks...& I'll update the page soon...
Just for info:
How scanning/editing affect the photograph:
link1
link2
prashant ani Teju
|
Ani ekhade
portable equipment swasta milate ka slides baghayala? >> Use a Loupe.
Outdoor sathi kuthla changala slide roll ahe ka? >> If you read the film selection article I have written you will notice that I have provided a link there. This link lists all the slide films available in the market today and it lists in the right most column which of those are specifically designed for shooting outdoors.
3rd question is subjective.....all i can say is that you should bracket exposures when you start off and check out the colors. Then, in the future use the exposure that gives you the colors that YOU like.
ex: I always overexpose Velvia 1/3 stop because i like the colors then. I do not over/under expose Astia at all because I like those colors with Astia....ani hyacha artha asa nahi ki velvia overexpose keli nahi tar changle ranga yet nahit, just that I as a person like the colors that velvia gives when it is overexposed......kuthla ranga/saturation changla ani kuthla vait ha jyachya tyachya aavdivaar avlambun ahe.....question is, How do you like to see your colors ? ....run your own tests by bracketing, find it out and then go with your perceptions and likes.
...best of Luck shooting !! ....feel free to ask anymore questions !!
.pan te structure etke sudnar disat hote ki >> :-)) ....gotcha !
Deliya's are really beaut....must check If I can find some here !
|
question:
I had seen photos where bright spots (lamp etc) appears like star....how do you get that effect
|
I had seen photos where bright spots (lamp etc) appears like star....how do you get that effect >> Long Exposures in the excess of 3 seconds or so make most of the point sources of light such as lamps look like stars .....OR you can use the "startburst" filter....you can get it for 30$ in any camera store.
|
Alternative to Star filter (Cross Screen filter):
Use a piece of fine mesh window screen in front of a lense to create four rays from bright light source. IF you use 2 of such meshes at 45 degrees that will produce 8 point star.
Unfortunately though I've taken these snaps I do not have them developed yet.
Normally image is bit blurr in this case.
Maverik can you try this ? ;o)
I called up today at your lab.
|
Maverik can you try this ? ;o) >> oh man....hmm....yeah sure I'll give it a try...:p
Aare mantya la takda fadki chicago la parat jayla laagle....tyachya advisor che faarmaan aale :o) ....sakalpaasun BWI var hoto....we got his itinerary changed and I saw him off....attach aalo parat lab madhe....will call ya later tonight when I go home.
|
Manya:
Flash can be used as a primary source of light when the ambient light is very low. The flash lighting determines the exposure for the scene in such cases. The flash exposure used under such circumstances is computed as follows:
If the guide No. for the Flash is say 138 for the focal length that you are shooting at. Then to get a correct exposure on a subject from say 10 feet away you would use an aperture setting of 138/10 = 13.8 approx (use a number that is closest to 13.8 on the aperture scale).
IF you are shooting at mid-day or in general in the presense of point sources of light arranged at an angular orientation with reference to the subject, then harsh shadows are created.
If the subject is a human, then the nose throws a shadow and shadows are also created under the eyes. This makes the photograph much less appealing. Check out the photographs of models in advertisements n magazines....you will NOT see a single shadow on their face anywhere...each and every feature on their face is lit properly and that makes the picture look much more appealing.
Fill flash can be used under harsh lighting conditions to get rid of the shadows and create a uniformly lit subject. The Flash in NOT the primary source of light in this situation and does not affect the exposure much. The exposure is determined by the primary source of light (whatever it is...ex: sun) and a small burst of flash is used to fill in the shadows.
Note that this is by no means a 100% correct and complete description of the idea of fill flash....but I hope this gives you somewhat of
an idea of the concept.
|
Thanks a lot Mave, I would also try to read more about it (please write if you know any sites, books)
|
Maverik
| |
| | Friday, April 05, 2002 - 9:48 pm: | 
| 
|
Images & Your Senses...
Think about the last press shot you saw; did the image relate all the
information necessary for you to understand what was going on or did the image need to
be supported by the story.Is the image self explanatory.
Did the last ad shot you saw in your latest magazine convey the message.
There is no difference in any image you create.
You create an image because you know it brings a memory or feeling to you but
you were there; is the image going to convey to the viewer, the same emotions.
That's the goal.bringing your feelings or experience across to the viewer.
Just as an Ad shot or PJ image hopefully does its job, it is the same
obligation of any image to involve the viewer in the same way as the creator was
involved.
Can you convey Touch.Taste.Smell.Sound.Vision.Emotions.
Can you hear, taste or smell colors? Can you remember the last time something
smelled green or tasted yellow?
When was the last time you heard an orange sound? Or saw a loud blade of grass?
Or felt a soft purple or pink sounded loud?
Can you see a Mozart piece or smell it or taste it or feel it in your fingers?
Don't be afraid to touch, smell, taste or listen to what you're about to
photograph.
Be in touch with what you're feeling at the time of creation and think are you
truly representing what you feel or see.are you getting it across to the
viewer.
Artie
|
vow...amv , baryach divasanni. nice one.
|
Maverik
| |
| | Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 1:26 am: |
|
|
Scanning/Processing Pictures
1. Scan your print/-ve/slide at the highest possible scanner resolution. I generally scan pictures at 2400 dpi. Save this file in 'tif' format. (just for Infor sake, a 2400 dpi scan of a 35mm slide at 8bit c-r gives approximately a 24 MB tif file.)
The JPG format uses data compression and if you save your file as a JPG file, the image you open in photoshop will be way inferior as compared to the nice original scan.
2. Open the tif file in Photoshop.
Do 'Ctrl-L' in photoshop. This will open up a window with three sliders that can move horizontally. Positions of these sliders correspond to the shadows (leftmost), middle-tones and high-lights in the picture.
By moving the slider corresponding to the shadows, one can adjust the darkness of the shadow areas in the pictures and similarly for the slider corresponding to the "highlights". Moving the "middle" tones slider (which will be the central slider) will change the effect of the picture dramatically. Move this middle-tone slider and adjust the tones to fall wherever you want them to for maximum impact.
[For Black and White pictures, you can covert the picture to "duotone" or "tritone" modes and work further with them to achieve the required tonality].
Now adjust the contrast in the image if you want to, and crop the picture to get the composition as you want.
3. Apply the Sharpen More Filter.
4. Apply the Sharpen Filter (this will create image artifacting & the image will look horrible but that will automatically go after reducing the image resolution).
If you scan the pictures at low resolutions (optical resolution of 100-400dpi) then you might want to skip this step.
N.B: IF you are going to make PRINTS from your final jpg files, then SKIP STEPS 3 and 4.
5. Reduce the resolution to 72 dpi (for computer display) & adjust image size to whatever u want it to be.
6. Apply the unsharp mask Filter. A good starting point for the Unsharp Mask Options are 75% with 0.5 pixel radius and 4 threshold levels.
These values will not work for all pictures but are a good starting point for majority of the normal pictures in my experience. You can fine tune these variables to get the optimum sharpening without making the picture look bad.
Through all of the above steps work with a 'tif' file.
# Finally convert the tif file into a jpeg for display.
PS: If your scans are dusty, get rid of the dust by using the rubber-stamp tool even before starting to adjust the levels and all.
This is a set of steps I follow. I am certain that there are other ways of post-processing scans for display on the computer. Any other inputs from 'PShop gurus' will be appreciated.
|
Maverik
| |
| | Monday, May 27, 2002 - 7:32 pm: |
|
|
Avoiding Lens Flare
Shooting against the sun can create ghastly lens flare as shown above and ruin your otherwise nice picture.
How can one determine if Lens flare is going to occur or not ?
Quite often it is not clear from what you see in the view finder whether lens flare will occur or not.
What you see through the viewfinder of a SLR is what the picture will look like if shot with the lens is wide open (aperture). Ex: With a 50mm f/1.8 Lens, what you see through the view finder is the kind of picture that will appear on paper if the picture is shot @ an aperture setting of 1.8.
However, every picture is not shot at f/1.8 aperture. One may want to use lower aperture values to obtain a higher depth of field. Consider a hypothetical case where one has determined the proper exposure for a scene to be say f/22 @ 1/180 sec.
If you are shooting against the sun and If you want to find out whether lens flare will occur or not, you have to manually stop your lens down to f/22 aperture and then view the scene through the view finder at f/22. If lens flare is going to occur, it will now be visible in the view finder of the camera.
You can avoid this lens flare and save your picture by
1. Using a Lens Hood...
2. Holding a hankerchief or a piece of paper just away from the lens in the direction from which the light is coming in...
and if both above do not work,
3. Choosing a different position to shoot from.
In the picture that I have posted above, I did not see any Lens Flare while looking through the view finder and I have this ghastly flare on the print. IF only I had stopped the lens down to the shooting aperture of f/27 that I have used on this shot, the lens flare would have been visible in the view finder and I could have chosen a different location from which to shoot.
|
Maverik
| |
| | Monday, May 27, 2002 - 7:38 pm: |
|
|
Oops.. here is the picture ... and the yellowish pentagonal thingis in the picture is the lens flare ...
|
Natya
| |
| | Saturday, August 17, 2002 - 3:58 am: |
|
|
Can anyone write something about preserving the old negatives? I checked couple of sites and found the negative/film storage solutions expensive.
I would like to know about an economical way of doing it.
Thanks,
Rohit.
|
Boli
| |
| | Friday, October 18, 2002 - 2:20 pm: |
|
|
I am facing 2 major problems while using my Nikon N65.
1. For outdoor photographs, however good the composition is, the result seems to be tooo flat. I need to know some technique to make them look sort of 3D or have some depth.
2. I do not use a external flash. For outdoor, in daylight the results are dull. Only in bright sunlight I do get good results. So is it essential to have a external flash system, if yes then I need help on which flash to use.
thanks.
|
Maverik
| |
| | Friday, October 18, 2002 - 2:41 pm: |
|
|
What film do you use ?
|
Boli
| |
| | Friday, October 18, 2002 - 2:59 pm: |
|
|
ISO 200 (either Konica or Kodak)
|
Boss
| |
| | Saturday, October 19, 2002 - 6:28 am: |
|
|
baÜlaI..
maaJyaakDo haca k^ maora Aaho AaiNa malaa ha p`a^blaoma naahI Aalaa. Aa}TDÜAr ÔÜTÜ tr Ôarca Cana yaotatÊ
with built in flash.
|
Maverik
| |
| | Saturday, October 19, 2002 - 10:20 pm: |
|
|
Boli:
Dull Pictures =>
If you are using Konica Centuria/Kodak Max/Kodak Gold then those films seem to be inherently dull but produce a higher contrast to make up for that dullness, which messes up the picture.
The above may or may not be your problem. You can try using other films like Kodak Portra UC or Kodak Royal Gold (cheaper than portra) as a test and see if you still have the same problem.
3D or Depth Issue =>
The 3 dimensionality of a scene is either emphasized or deemphasized by the lighting conditions. Try shooting scenes that are side-lit. Side lighting delineates the shape of an object and gives you that sense of 3 dimensionality in a 2 dimensional picture.
PS: I have to say that I am not entirely sure what you mean when you say that your pictures seem to be too flat. Flatness contrastwise or depthwise ? In photographic parlance, flat is a word generally used to denote the contrast in a photograph. If so, then your picture will appear "flat" or low contrast if the lighting is flat and no film will save that picture. You just have to wait for the right light.
# On a cloudy day, the source is a low contrast one and the pictures taken in such light will also appear flat.
umm ... well .. this is as much as i know.
|
Boli
| |
| | Sunday, October 20, 2002 - 1:40 am: |
|
|
Thanks for the feed back.
For resolving dullness I will try to use a different film as mentioned by Maverik.
All the conditions I am talking about are a result of Auto Mode in N65.
When I say my pictures come out flat then, I mean I do not get a 3D effect in the picture as I can view it in reality.
As said, I will try using more lighting. Will flash be useful when shooting in dull weather?
|
Maverik
| |
| | Sunday, October 20, 2002 - 3:13 pm: |
|
|
I will try using more lighting. >> just using more lighting will not give you a 3D effect. It is the direction from which the light strikes the object that helps getting a 3D effect. Experiment with that.
Take a cup or a mug and let light fall on it from different angles. Keep it outdoors in bright light and see. Keep it indoors, letting light come in from only one window and see how this type of lighting makes the mug look like. Observe the shadows and the variation of tonality of the mug surface and you will start to see for yourself what makes and what does not make a picture look 3D.
Lighting objects correctly to bring out their shape is one of the more difficult things to do. Takes a lot of practice to get it right !!
|
Chatur
| |
| | Sunday, October 20, 2002 - 8:08 pm: |
|
|
I am a bit new to photography and certainly not as good as you guys. So my questions are elementary.
I have been using Canon Sureshot 38-105mm Camera for photography for the past 3 years. However I still face problems in night photos. I have tried all the modes in the camera(it has a set of fixed modes which give varying effects due to different shutter speed); but it always happens that some photos come out very well while in some others, the light sources get distorted and the photo is spoiled. Do you have any suggestions in this regard?
Also, the camera film comes in various types like ISO 100, 200, 400, 800 and so on. My camera supports upto ISO 400(teh manual says something like - for optimum results use DX coded ISO 400 film). What exactly is this ISO factor? How does it affect the photo?
I have seen that higher the ISO value, costlier is the film. So I believed that higher ISO value is better and hence have started using ISO 800 films. But since I am still an amateur, I do not notice the difference. Can someone guide me in this regard?
|
Naatyaa
| |
| | Sunday, September 14, 2003 - 3:02 pm: |
|
|
Good article about Film vs. Digital..
http://www.nikonians.org/dcforum/DCForumID38/1443.html
|
Khushal
| |
| | Tuesday, March 09, 2004 - 8:28 am: |
|
|
Hi! All,
I have a Pentax IQZoom EZY-R With 38mm-70mm Camera which i bought In US three years back.
Its been fanatstic using it.But recently it fell down from one of the school girl in simla(amchya pitashreeni tyana photo kadhayala dila hota).He sangitale karan tasa ha handling la far sopa ahe padla kasa kai koan jane. Aso.
Tyacha parinam asa zala ki tyche lence varche shutter bandach hoat nahiye.(Other wise its working fine).
Akala dakhvile hote and he said its broken and we will need the same shutter of any old (n cold) similar camera.
Ata tyaveli mi ashe 5 camere anale hote ani gift pan dile pan tya saglyanche mast chalalet tyamule tya mitracha kahi upyog nahi. If any maaybolikar can help in this regard i will appriciate it.
thanks n regards.
|
Khushal,
Check this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3801923692&category=3328
I think that it will be easier to replace that camera which is available for $10 on eBay. Anyway, choice is yours.
|
|
| मायबोली |
|
| चोखंदळ ग्राहक |
|
| महाराष्ट्र धर्म वाढवावा |
|
| व्यक्तिपासून वल्लीपर्यंत |
|
| पांढर्यावरचे काळे |
|
| गावातल्या गावात |
|
| तंत्रलेल्या मंत्रबनात |
|
| आरोह अवरोह |
|
| शुभंकरोती कल्याणम् |
|
| विखुरलेले मोती |
|
|
|
| हितगुज दिवाळी अंक २००८ |
|
|